Mumbai, 16th August, 2017: The 24th batch of five Gen Next designers presented by INIFD was a creative display of talent and fashion, at the opening show during Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2017. The Gen Next shows have brought forth great fashion talents like Nachiket Barve, Rahul Mishra, Aneeth Arora, Kallol Datta, Ujjawal Dubey and a host of names that have made it big in the fashion industry.


It was anamalgamation of techniques learnt from design gurus like Tarun Tahiliani, DollyJ, Bada Saab, Cad and the Dandy London that Akshat Bansal brought on the rampwith his label ‘Bloni’. The inspiration was unconventional – the snow cladmountains and science of nature that was cleverly recreated in a black/whitemonochrome look. Crochet as well as tie-and-dye gave an androgynous depth tothe clothes as ombré loose Bermudas, kurtas, shirts and churidars appeared inquick succession on the runway. The fabric choice was a mix of Chanderi withItalian crêpes that turned the traditional and modern textiles intocontemporary western silhouettes with great ease. 

Strikingpieces on the ramp were all in black and white with the tree motif appearing instrategic places for men’s and women’s wear. Kurtas were layered, trousers werefluid and ankle length, asymmetric tunics were teamed with cropped pants andthe midi with a flowing coat were ideal for the coming season. 


With athorough grounding in fashion from experts like Sabyasachi Mukherjee, ManishMalhotra and Patine, Deepak Pathak’s ‘Integument’ line was a stylish study intechniques like jacquard knitting and flock printing. Using a variety offabrics - felt, wool blends, twill suiting and knitted tulle - the collectioninspired by Bengali fishermen had clever drapes, twists, tucks and sharptailoring. The clean, fuss-free silhouettes were highlighted only by black andgrey but were further embellished with doodled artworks. Long sleeved maxismoulded the body with sashes, while the sensuous shapes added to the feminineappeal of the ensembles. 

Knits made agreat impact on the ramp as black layered tunic/pant and gilet caught the eye.The asymmetric knit dress, grey midi with coat, palazzos with trench coat andthe wrap knitted maxi could move with great ease from dawn to dusk. 


With a highprofile client list starting with Ali Fazal, Sapna Bhawnani, Karan Tacker andSara Jane Dias, Sumiran Kabir Chawla’s ‘Anaam’ label; was inspired by‘Sonagachi’ (Kolkata’s Red Light District). It was a look that evoked visionsof a rampaging warriors’ army in flowing uniforms that had an arresting appeal.Here was a strong, fierce, nameless, ageless, genderless, line of clothing thatcould move seamlessly from HIS to HER wardrobe. Using a mix of ingeniousdraping and pattern making techniques that ensured zero fabric wastage, thewool and wool blends were turned into black toga like maxis, unstructured midisand shawl covers. 

Men’s andwomen’s wear could be interchanged effortlessly as black and grey appeared forcapes, wrap skirts, tunics, a combo of cape and jacket, draped hem kaftans anda striking maxi with a trail and shoulder drape. The quirky hats added to thelook of the ensembles giving them an almost surreal appearance. 


The label ‘UntitledCo.’ by Shenali Sema and Rinzin Lama has had the honour of an original designtechnique and concept selected by the globally renowned label Kenzo.

Havingworked with designers like Varun Sardana, Anna Sui, New York, Morphe as well asReliance Retail and Creative Impex, the designing duo presented interestingembroidery techniques coupled with clever fabric manipulation that brought tothe forefront the nostalgic Japanese print making art. Using treadleembroidered, single stitch technique, along with cutwork and heat-set micropleating, the result was a feminine look. In addition, it was the doublesoftened, washed, grainy, polyester, georgette, embellished with handembroidered knotting technique on cotton mesh that added pizazz to thegarments. 

Pastelshades of beige and watery blue had delicate floral prints; while thesilhouettes were relaxed and feminine with maxis, wrap slit midis and covers.

Pretty as apicture were the lovely soft covers, maxis with wide-sleeved jackets,long-sleeved smocks, drop-waist skirts or dresses and the intriguing long orshort striped pullovers that made a great impact on the catwalk.


When it cameto understated glamour the ‘Saaksha and Kinni’ label by Saaksha Parekh andKinnari Kamat presented ‘Amourage’, which was a symphony in chiffon andChanderi that merged beautifully with metal woven sheets and was highlightedwith thread and cut work. Inspired by the life of Tomoe Gozen the 12th centurywarrior woman whose feminine Samurai attitude was a blend of grit, tendernessand grace along with temerity, the rigid stripes over dazzling creations werethe designing pair’s apt offering. Swirls of feminine navy sheers were dappledwith delicate floral blossoms for a feminine maxi. 

The deep redtiered frilled maxi with gold embroidered gilet, pleated bell-sleeved maxi andcover, striped jackets, black maxi with skirt with beaded tasseled blouse, theshimmering horizontal striped skirt with printed cover or the printed layeredskirt with cropped blouse were superb additions in the presentation.

Adding tothe Gen Next creations was the innovative black facial painting and the sleekhair by Lakmé Makeup Expert, Donald Simrock for the five designers’ collectionsthat was the highlight of the show.

  (0)   Comment